P.O. Box 875638, Wasilla, Alaska 99687, USA

Kit #001, Fairchild model 71


Test fit looks good; the elevator cable inspection window has yet to be installed.

My chosen shortcut was to cut the area out of the base of the fin and glue in a suitable chunk of clear styrene. To make this look right, a friend advised that I "paint" the edges of the clear part with an indelible black marker first. Liquid cement will make the bond through the dried ink and leave the seam black; confirmed, slick as a whistle. After this dried, the elevator crank and cable were drilled into the clear piece with 2 wire-gauge bits and filled from one end with a dark gray wash. The holes for the tail brace cables were drilled; elevator halves drilled and joined with a wire pin. A slot was cut in the rudder for the 1-piece rudder crank, made from aluminum soda can... same as the elevator cranks:

A little more detail on the wings: This chunk is my hurried, simplified "take" on a slightly more complex bit of the fuel system (gas line filter box?). A more careful study of F.71 photos shows some exposed line & other bits...
... But of course you can take a model as far as you want to...
Now we have all windows masked with Dively's liquid mask, frames trimmed away with knife and tweezers, all window edges and frames primed flat black. Did the crank case cover holes at the same time. Main wing struts are trimmed, drilled and pinned at bottom ends, liquid mask on flat faces of top end fairings (and corresponding daubs of masking on their under-wing locations). The baggage door has been scribed (locations and shapes varied), as have the fuselage fairing strips, and all door handles were added from stretched sprue. Wire lifting handles were super-glued into holes close to the bottom edge near the tail:

After the first paint session; one bad patch on one wing had to be re-sanded, re-scribed & re-painted, because I got too impatient about sanding out a small blemish & rolled back shreds of half-cured paint instead...

The center section fuel tank was masked around, then it & the floats were sprayed flat aluminum:

The window frames only needed to be "cut in" to their outside edges with a brush, since the windows were still masked:

I can only decal on horizontal surfaces, but eventually everything is ready for the last clear coat:

I took some pains with the rudder decal, applying and drying one side first...
Last clear coat drying on an old trophy stand. Once dry, the window masks and all glue joint masking can be removed:
... then sealing the trailing edge with red paint before applying the other side (I was able to sand this edge very neatly after; no touch-up required):

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